Observations Oslo

Subtle; that’s what I found Oslo to be; subtle.

Its not like some cities where one almost immediately gets a flavour and the ambience. Oslo’s much more subtle than that. In fact, it took me a couple days until the city began to grow on me. If its your first time, I definitely suggest that you go for a week, otherwise you’re going to miss out.

One of the nice things is how nice and clean everything is. How polite and helpful people are. These qualities make it sound rather clinical, which they are, but at the same time its a very welcome to be surrounded by friendly people and cleanliness.

Its definitely a place to go walking and exploring. Although there’s a very good tram network and taxis can be found easily, I strongly urge a map and some comfortable walking shoes. There’s something familiar about the place, but new. It at times reminds one of Sweden or Denmark, but actually its rather different.

The next thing to strike you is that its expensive! Ok, so not so much a quality; at times, especially with bar prices, its ridiculously expensive. The cost of even fast food and snacks is high, let alone proper restaurants. This isn’t the place to go for shopping.

So, its subtle, clean and expensive; not the best sales pitch for a place! However, you would be missing out if only the obvious was going to steer your choices for destinations to explore and enjoy. After a couple of days one really begins to get a fuller flavour for the city and its people. 

Its a very elegant place. Great food and fun bars are dotted around the place. To keep costs down one can even choose to stay in hostels, leaving money for food, drink and the famed ferries. Actually, the cost for hotels isn’t as high as some other European destinations. Probably the main reason for Oslo being known as such an expensive city are more to do with the taxation on alcohol. With a little bit of research, one can choose bars, cafes and restaurants which are off the typical tourist routes and will cost less.

There are lots of free attractions, museums and events to enjoy too. A quick look through the Visit Oslo web site will provide very helpful listings of these. Another thing to keep in mind is that the best times to visit are between May and September. Leave it later than that and the weather can get rather cold and wet.

On my first day, after checking in to my hostel, I picked up a camera and decided to go exploring. My first port of call was the beautiful palace right in the middle of the Slottsparken. The palace has its own guard and several times a day there is a changing of the guards ceremony which is well worth seeing. As with everything in Oslo, its very friendly and accessible, unlike certain other cities where everything happens behind closed metal gates at great distance.

The main streets in the centre of town are only a ten minute walk from the palace. Some very beautiful restaurants, both traditional and contemporary line the streets which then give way to trendy clothes shops and boutiques. Although not a city to shop for bargains, its still good fun having a lazy walk through the streets window shopping. A large ice rink in the middle of the city centre acts as a great focal point and meeting place.

The marina’s within walking distance of the city centre and 15 minutes later I find myself sat outside a cafe under some gas heaters and some viking style blankets watching the boats and people. There’s a booming trade in ferries as they dock and leave the marina carrying their cargo of tourists and commuters.

There’s a wonderful warmth and cosy feeling to the restaurants and bars at night. They just become so welcoming and comfortable. The food is good and the ambience great, and with the flow of beer the hours disappear and quite often one finds that its early morning all of a sudden.

One of the funnier things that I experienced was going from one bar to another after midnight, only to be greeted by the shouting chants of some drunken youths. I turned to my friend to ask if they were chanting football slogans to be told that actually they were reciting poetry! Now that’s the type of drunken youth I enjoy running into at night!

Norwegians like their coffee and the people of Oslo are definitely into good coffee. I found a rather wonderful coffee place next to my hostel (Cochs Pension, Parkveien 25) called Kaffebrenneriet, with the most amazing coffees and pastries. A superb start to the day. My joy was multiplied when I realised it was a chain!

My personal favourite place though has to be the Vigeland Sculpture Park (Vigelandsparken – Main entrance from Kirkeveien). Its an absolutely huge park dedicated to the work of sculpture Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943). There are well over 200 sculptures dotted around the park, some as individual pieces, others working together as a much bigger piece. Its quite possible to spend the better part of a day exploring the works in the park. Definitely worth a visit.

Another favourite haunt of mine turned out to be Lorry Restaurant (Parkveien 12). A large restaurant over two floors with a great bar. Although its a fairly large place, it somehow has a mood and atmosphere of a smaller and more intimate establishment. The service was also extremely friendly and fun. I must admit to having more than the occasional late night here; the kind when before you know it its 3.30 am and the staff begin to clear up!

Oslo may not be at the top of most people’s list for must visit cities, but having been, I’d certainly recommend it for that more relaxed break, checking out parks and museums during the day and spending the evenings sampling some good food and beer.

Camera Bags


Its strange, but one of the most common questions I get asked is “which bag should I get”!


After years of searching, I think I’ve found the answer. Its a relatively new American company called ThinkTank Photo. The good news is that you can now buy their range in the UK from SnapperStuff.

There was a little profile on what I use from the range in the last catalogue and here’s a section from it:

 
“Its always a struggle” says Edmond. “Sometimes the work can be very challenging and demanding, both physically and emotionally. The last thing I need is for my equipment to be a barrier and distract me from the assignment at hand”.
 
“I spend a lot of time researching what’s available. In the old days, the camera stayed more or less constant. It was film and paper which kept changing and getting better. Nowdays there’s such a huge progression in the quality of digital cameras, computers, software and transmission means that if one doesn’t want to fall behind, one has to put in the research time”.
 
“I find that Canon’s range of lenses and cameras fit the way I work very well. I’m delighted to have discovered Apple’s Aperture and the new MacPro and MacBook Pro which work a treat and have never let me down”.
 
“Its one thing having found the photographic and computer gear and a different thing altogether when it comes to carrying the equipment. My storeroom is filled with various bags, of all shapes and sizes, and from all different manufacturers. I’m ashamed to say that a month wouldn’t go by without me buying a new bag or pouch in an attempt to find that most elusive of goals; the perfect bag. I’m happy to say that this habit is well and truly behind me now after I discovered ThinkTank Photo on the internet several years ago, even before they were available in the UK. A quick email to Doug Murdoch resulted in a phone conversation and a great professional bond. It was very refreshing to find someone who was so very passionate about what they did, had a very good understanding of the professional photographers’ needs, but even more importantly was open to new ideas and suggestions. I must admit that in all these years I have yet to find any manufacturer of bags and pouches that puts so much effort into perfecting design and quality of manufacture”.
 
“I use an Airport Security to transport most of my gear. A Glass Taxi carries one of my long lenses and a few other bits. I also use an Urban Disguise to carry two further bodies and four prime lenses. The one bag that I adore over all others for anything that involves working fast whilst on the move is the Change Up. I’ve had a prototype version of this and can’t even imagine going to work without it. If I need to carry any more gear, I attach one or two Chimp Cages to the side. It’s a superb system that just works well”.

The Floods

Photojournalists; we’re a strange breed indeed! I found myself driving at speed, windscreen wipers at full blast up the barely visible motorway towards Gloucester. The local radio station was constantly asking motorists to stay off the road, and letting people know that Gloucester was in peril. Months of torrential downpours had come down in a matter of days and parts of the country were underwater. Rivers had burst their banks all over the place. The radio again told me to stop and turn around; instead I planted my foot down a touch harder and carried on making my way to the flooded town.


My main worries were if I’d be able to get through, to get access, or will the situation be so bad that my 4×4 won’t get me in close enough. Will the Police do their best to stop me making pictures. Increasingly over the years it seemed to me that the Police’s priority had switched from fighting crime, to stopping photographers doing their job. Then, most of my thoughts drifted to my waders which I had bought on route from a fishing shop; will they really be waterproof?!


My new best friend, a voice at the local radio station told me that my target, the electricity power station which supplies half a million people across Gloucester and Cheltenham was at risk of being flooded. After following the calm female voice on my navigation system I finally got to Gloucester. I turned off a round about and found a street completely under water. Finding a few men just standing at the water’s edge in disbelief, I got directions to the power station, followed by “mate, I wouldn’t go there, its flooded”. They didn’t realise that unlike “normal” human beings, we actually seek out these places that the majority avoid. Wars, famines, riots, disasters…..flooding – yep, on my way.


I passed the road closed sign, and as I got closer to the power station, the number of emergency vehicles grew. This road was also flooded. I cursed myself at not reading my car’s user’s manual; I had no idea what depth I could drive through without flooding the engine or the passenger area.


Once I arrived at the side road leading to the power station I was astonished. The Fire Brigade, Army, Navy and Highways Agency were in full swing. There was a human conveyor belt of sand bag makers. These were being filled at full speed and loaded onto pallets to be taken inside the grounds of the power station to battle the force of mother nature.


I finally managed to get access and hitched a ride on a truck. Thoughts drifted to the fact that I was sat in a metal truck surrounded by water; the same body of water which was inching its way into an electricity power station – is this really a clever thing to do?!


All the delays in getting to Gloucester and eventually gaining access meant that I had to work quickly. I had deadlines to meet and the AFP picture desks in London and Paris had already been on the phone a couple of times. Spotting pictures as we went closer towards the power station, I began switching between cameras, making images. Soon enough I had the images I needed. Grabbing a ride back out of the flooded access road and straight to my car and my MacBook Pro and Aperture. Plugged in my card reader into the Firewire 800 port and my images started to download with the needed haste. In no time I’d edited, captioned and made all my image adjustments. As luck would have it I logged onto 3.5G (HSDPA) cellular signal and my images were making their way back to the office at speed.




The voice of my best friend on the radio had changed as presenters had handed over; however, the information was as good as before. As we’d all expected, the historic university city of Oxford was the next place to be. A quick chat with the picture editor at AFP and I was on my way.


It was night fall. People had already been evacuated and taken to the football stadium and the neighbouring hotel. Having switched to the local radio for Oxford, I found another new best friend. Listening to the commentators and more importantly, local residents calling in with up to the minute reports kept me up to date with what to expect. I headed straight for the football stadium and the hotel. The Red Cross and St John Ambulance Service were at high alert and had already homed the evacuees in hotel rooms. There were now reports of Abingdon flooding around 11pm. I decided to head for Abingdon and then return to Oxford. Luckily Abingdon didn’t flood too badly. After making some pictures I headed back to Oxford , but only after discovering the joy of learning to drive in pitch black flooded tiny and bendy country lanes. There’s a first time for everything! Having found a room for the night it was time to edit and send the pictures I’d shot from the evening in Oxford and Abingdon. 


After a few hours sleep I was back at the hotel and the neighbouring football stadium. There were many tens of elderly evacuees having breakfast and being looked after by the Red Cross. I spent the next couple of hours photographing what was going on. After another editing and wiring session, I headed towards Osney, a part of Oxford right by the river Thames which had already partly submerged. There was a lake in the middle of the main road. I was astonished. The side roads which led to housing were also flooded; not as badly, but the environment agency was predicting that tomorrow would be the beginning of the some real flooding.


The story had grown. There was a lot of international interest too. What had begun as an overnight assignment turned into a five day and night, damp and wet job. The few hours of sleep each night were at a variety of tiny hotel rooms around the city.


During the next few days, my most important piece of equipment wasn’t my cameras, lenses or laptop; it was my trusty pair of rubber waders! Having the freedom to move around was liberating. All I had to worry about was falling down submerged and invisible man holes (their covers having been moved by the power of the moving water). I’d been in a mine field before so was accustomed to being wary of where I tread, but had never thought that a man hole could ever be a source of equal worry. As the pressure of the flood water flowing into the submerged man holes was so strong, I was told by the Fire Brigade how deadly these were.


During my four days in and around Oxford, I spent most of the time in Osney. I’d decided that it was better to tell the story of this little community would be a good mirror of what everyone else was going through. AFP had another two photographers covering the story from other towns. As I began to get to know the locals, I discovered their hatred of the media as they swooped in for half a day, made their hurried pictures, interviews and pieces to camera. Often exaggerating things to make their stories more sensational, and leaving for the next “scoop”. Over the days I began to get a little bit more access and respect. People started to talk to me and give me an insight into what they were going through. I ended up spending my birthday in Osney and was touched when a couple of residents bought me a birthday cake!




During the assignment, I ended up shooting 3240 frames. Every moment of every day and night, every corner, every city and village had yielded new moments to document. I’d ended up with an edit of 166 images during the week which had been edited, captioned and wired. I’d made several national papers  over the days and news magazines too. Time magazine had even used one of the images in its “Pictures of the Week” slideshow.


The last thing I needed during the week was equipment or software issues. I’d feared the dampness or the occasional rain shower might give me trouble. However, everything kept working smoothly. All I had to worry about was making pictures which conveyed the story…and not sink down man holes.


SLIDESHOW OF IMAGES HERE


Apple Aperture 1.5


Press photographers are a creature of habit. We find a system that works (cameras, favoured lenses, computer hardware, software and transmission methods) and stick with them until absolutely necessary. This way we can concentrate on breaking events and the equipment is just an extension and just works. As a result, the decision to switch to a new computer platform or software doesn’t come easily.


Working for the wire services and newspapers, for me speed is of utmost importance. In this day and age of evening papers, national and international clients, there are always deadlines to meet. Speed means publications.


I used to shoot RAW for around 15% of my assignments. These would be features or portraits for the papers when the deadline was days away, not minutes away. That’s when I came across Aperture. Shooting RAW has its obvious advantages but its always been just a little too slow to process. My old work flow for RAW used to include five different software packages. Now with Aperture I’ve cut this down to three. I use Aperture to download the card of images, caption, edit, apply corrections (colour, density, sharpness, cropping) and then export into Photoshop for finalising the image (any selective changes like dodging or burning). Lastly the image is sent via FTP to the client.


Initially I had a bit of a steep learning curve to conquer. Aperture did things differently to the way I worked. However, after a week of using it, I was smitten. I sold my PC laptop, embraced my new PowerBook Pro and added Aperture to my arsenal.


Perhaps the biggest UK assignment this year happened on June 27, 2007. Prime Minister Tony Blair was to finally step down and hand over the reigns of power to his Chancellor, Gordon Brown. Amongst the hundreds of media, squashed into the tiniest of spaces and with international deadlines looming, I would never have ever considered shooting RAW before; but I did. I knew my work flow was going to be speedy. I’d already written my captions the night before and saved them as a template in Aperture. All that remained was to shoot the job.

I counted my blessings on the day. I switched all three cameras into RAW; I had a 24-70, a 70-200 and a 300mm all fixed and ready to fire. I shoot 99% of my assignments in manual mode (to my colleagues amusement I even use a hand held light meter for most jobs!). I had set my exposures and was ready for Tony Blair on his return from the House of Commons. He came back, got out his Jaguar, stood by the door to Number 10, waved and went in. Great; the shots were good but the main shot would be when he left number 10 for the last time. Soon enough, he came out with his family, hung around for a short while for the gathered media and then drove off to the Palace to formally resign. Why am I counting my blessings? Well, around a split second after the Blairs came out, the sun shone out from behind the clouds which were hiding it so well. It was harsh with terrible shadows. I was so deeply concentrated in making an image from what proved to be a very dull moment (but historically of significance) that I’d over exposed a few of the initial pictures. Well, to say that shooting RAW and using Aperture came to my rescue would be an understatement. Using a combination of the exposure control, the highlight and shadow recovery and the levels modules the overexposed images were rescued, captioned and sent.


After I’d wired the images of Blair, it was Gordon Brown’s turn. He was driven into Downing Street and took a short walk to a microphone, made his speech, stood by the door, a couple of awkward waves and he went inside to run the country. Frame after frame in quick succession, swapping cameras and in a few moments it was all over. Within minutes my first images were wired to Polaris in New York.

I was still a bit concerned by some of the overexposed Blair pictures. A call to the picture editor proved that I was worried for nothing. “Good job Edmond; nice shots”.

The Prize of Prague 03




The Prize of Prague 02